Friday, February 24, 2012

every girl's cradle*


There are several patterns for a crocheted bassinet/purse on the web. All are  little different, yet serve the same purpose. Most links do not work. This has caused problems in the past. I always share the links and when they don’t work it gets frustrating. I have never been able to find the very first link I used on the yellow cradle. I liked that pattern the best. As of now, I only can get one link to work, but I don’t care for its hood at all and it has more ruffles. I don’t think I have used the same pattern twice since I have never been able to get the same link to work twice!

With two birthday parties this weekend, one for a 4yo and the other for a 7yo, this is the perfect pattern for a gift.  The problem? No working links! Why keep sharing something that is broken? I can remember the body of the bag is only a chain with half doubles, completely around, even on the starting chain. I have used this same beginning for purses of all sizes. I remember the row with back loops only and the long trebles spaces to weave the cord through. The hood seemed it may prove to be more difficult, but it wasn’t.

Following is the pattern I came up with this week. I am sure it is similar to others, but at least this link works. I am very proud of the hood. I didn’t think I understood enough about stitching to get it the shape that I wanted, but I think it may even be better than some of the other patterns I have tried. I hope you enjoy crocheting a cute cradle bag for a special little girl (or two) that you know.

Cradle bag


Any 2 fun colors of worsted weight yarn (I have even used slightly bulky yarn)
 H hook.


Do not turn your work for the body of the bag. Chain 3 counts as a double crochet.


Start with a double crochet foundation row of 18, 4dc into same stitch as last dc. Now work along back of “starting” chain, dc in each st, putting 4dc in last.  (44dc)


Rows1-6: ch 3, dc each st around, slst to join. (44dc)


Row7: ch 3, working in FRONT loops only, dc in joining, 2dc ss around, slst to join. (88dc)


Row8: ch 3, dc in ea dc around, slst to join (88dc) Change colors.


Row9: ch 4, 3 treble in joining, *skip 3 stitches, 4 tr ss, repeat around, end with a slst to top of ch4 to join. Ch1 turn. (23shells)


Row10: (slst, ch4, 3tr) in space made between shells, *4tr in next space, repeat around, slst to join. Fasten off ends and weave in.


HOOD:

Fold down the last few rows and find row 6 (done on BOL). Fold cradle in half and find the middle stitch. Count 11 stitches on each side of the seam and mark. You will be working in the middle 21 stitches between the markers. I do it this way so I don’t need to remove the markers until I am done. Attach yarn with a slst.


Row1: ch3, dc 3x, dc2tog, dc 2x, dc2tog, dc, dc2tog, dc 2x, dc2tog, dc 4x, ch3 and turn. (17st)


Row 2: dc 2x, dc2tog, dc, dc2tog, dc, dc2tog, dc, dc2tog, dc 3x, ch3, and turn. (13st)


Row3: dc, dc2tog 2x, dc, dc2tog 2x, dc 2x, ch1 and turn. (9st)


Row 4: sc2tog 4x, sc, ch1 and turn. (5st)


Row 5: sc2tog 2x, sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Trim: sc along free loops of row 6 and along the hood. 


Cord for handle: For the handle, I made a cord. I took one very long strand, tied the two loose ends together. The tied ends need to be stationary, taped down or held tight.  Put a pencil in the looped end and twist until the yarn twists back on itself. Once twisted enough, match the tied end to the looped end. It should coil and twist back on itself to form a strong cord.  My husband   is very inventive, when he saw me doing this, he got out his drill and a hook to fit in the end to hold the loop.  This is much faster than the traditional way.  I weaved the cord through the spaces created on the last row and tied the ends together.

The doll pattern is available from Ravelry. Click here to view it.  The larger doll was made with an H hook, which does not fit in the cradle. I used a D hook on the smaller doll, it fits.









You may enjoy my patterns for free, even sell your finished projects, but please DO NOT claim my patterns or photos as your own and DO NOT sell them.


Tuesday, February 21, 2012

new idea for a wedding gift*




I came across two new crochet ideas this week. The first was an amigurumi house on its own lot with a fence and even a tree. I supposed it was made to be a decoration that sat on a table or shelf. The other was a 2-D bird house with a trail of flowers and leaves made to hang on the wall. I couldn’t decide which one to try first, so I incorporated a touch of each into a new design that I call Our Home wall hanging. Since this one will be a gift for Brilee’s and Steven’s wedding, I embroidered their first initials on the heart. The hardest part of this project was deciding on the colors. I do not know what the inside of their house looks like, or which colors they prefer to use. There are so many choices, monochromatic, cool, earthy, calming, bright and cheery, neutral. The list goes on. I rummaged through my scraps and this is what I came up with, I hope you like it, too!

Our Home wall hanging
Materials needed: a variety of ww yarn, H hook


Home 

Half double crochet foundation chain of 21 or chain 24 and half double crochet in each chain staring in the fourth chain from your hook. Chain 3, turn. Chain 3 counts as a hdc.


Rows1-15: hdc in each st across, ch3, turn. (22st)

Row16: hdc,*hdc2tog 2x, hdc 2x, repeat across, ch3, turn. (15st)


Row17: hdc, *hdc2tog 2x, hdc 2x, repeat across, ch3, turn. (10st)

Row18: hdc, hdc2tog 2x, hdc, hdc2tog, hdc, ch3, turn. (7st)


Row19:hdc2tog, hdc 2x, hdc2tog, ch3, turn. (5st)


Fasten off and weave in ends.


 Roof

Attach yarn to the corner where your decreases started. Sc 2x in joining st, sc 8x up to hip of roof, 4sc ss, sc 8x, down the other slant of the roof, 2sc ss, ch1, turn. (24sc)


Row1: 2sc ss, sc in the next 22 sc, 2sc ss in last st. Fasten off. Attach a different color to right side.


Row2: 2sc ss in joining, sc in next 11 st, 4sc ss, sc 11x, 2sc ss, ch3, turn.

Row3: hdc in ss as ch3, hdc 14x, 4hdc ss, hdc 14x, 2hdc ss. Fasten off. Weave in ends.


Attach “grass” yarn to bottom corner of the house body. This is the back of your staring chain. Single crochet across, ch3, and turn.


Row1: hdc in ss as ch3, hdc in ea sc across with 2hdc in last sc, sc1, turn.


Row2: 2sc ss, sc across with 2hdc in last stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Chimney: Leave a long tail here for sewing chimney to roof.  Ch3, 2sc ss in second ch from hook, sc, ch2, turn. (3sc)


Row1: 2sc ss, sc 2x, ch1, turn. (4sc)


Row2: sc in next 3 st, 2sc in last st, ch1, turn. (5sc)


Rows3-6: sc in ea sc, ch1, turn. Fasten off after last stitch on row 6. Sew to roof and weave in ends.

Leaf chain:  chain 25, grab a loop from 9sc back, grab another from 9 more back, you should have 3 loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through last loop. Do not fasten off.

Chain 4o more, count back 8-10sc, grab a loop, count back 8-10sc more and grab a loop, 3 loops on the hook. Yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through the last loop. Repeat until you have your desired length. Attach to middle of the grass.


Door and window

Single crochet foundation row of 5, ch1, turn. (5sc)


Rows1 -5: sc in ea sc, ch1, turn. Ending with a slst on row 5 for the door.


Rows1-3: sc in ea sc, ch1, turn. Ending with a slst on row 3 for the window.  Fasten off, sew to house.

Tree trunk

Single crochet foundation row of 8, ch1, turn.


Rows1-2: sc in ea sc, ch1 turn.


Tree foliage


In a magic ring, sc6x. Do not slst to join, use a st marker.


Round1:2 sc in ea st. (12sc)


Round2: *sc, 2sc ss, repeat around. (18sc)


Round3: *sc in the next 2 st, 2sc ss, repeat around. (24sc)


Round4: *sc, skip a stitch, 3dc ss, sk st, sc, sk st, 3dc ss, repeat around. Sew trunk to house, sew foliage on top.


Vent


In a magic ring, sc 6x. Do not slst, us a st marker.


Round1:2 sc in ea st. (12sc) Change to a different color in the last 2 loops.


Round2: *sc, 2sc ss, repeat around. (18sc) Fasten off, sew onto house.

I had trouble getting the flower I wanted. I realized I have never crocheted a simple 2-d flower of moderate size. After frogging’ many before, this is what I came up with.


In a magic ring, sc 10x.  Do not slst, use a st marker. Switch colors in last 2 loops.


Round1: *(sc, 2dc) ss, (2dc, sc) ss, repeat around.


Yes, it’s that easy! I can’t believe how long it took me to figure it out! The next flower has three colors.

In a magic ring, sc 5x. Do not sl st, use a st marker. Switch colors in last 2 loops. (5sc)


Round1: 2sc in ea st around. Switch colors in last 2 loops. (10sc)


Round2: in BACK loops only. *(sc, 2dc) ss, (2dc, sc) ss, repeat around. Fasten off and weave in ends. Leave a long tail from the center color to attach to the leaf chain.















 You may enjoy my patterns for free, even sell your finished projects, but please DO NOT claim my patterns or photos as your own and DO NOT sell them.

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Trishelle's pink dress

I was making my niece a pink dress for her fourth birthday.  A few weeks before, I took what I had done so far for her to try on. I only had the top portion finished on hers. I also took the matching dress for her little sister that was almost complete. Upon the girl’s inspection, Trishelle realized she wanted to trade dresses with Kaylee because her dress looked as if it would fit her better than her own. I was giggling as I explained to her that neither one are finished but I promised her they both would fit each girl perfectly. What I had so far fit each child, so I was off back home to finish the crochet portions and add the cotton liners.
I began by using this pattern from Ravelry. As long as this isn't your first project, you should be able to follow the pattern with ease. I do remember using shorter chain spaces than she recommended. My skirt portion also deviates from the pattern.
This is my first time crocheting where gauge does matter. The first dress that I made was too small. Probably because I do crochet tight, but I also believe I didn't increase correctly. My second time, I paid more attention to my stitches and kept the yarn looser.













When sewing the liner to the crochet, I put a little tension on the crochet piece. Crochet is meant to stretch to fit. The cotton liner has minimum stretch.  I found this out the hard way when it came out too small the first time.



Thursday, February 9, 2012

a simple rattle*

With the small amount of yarn I had left over from my sister-in-law’s baby shower set, I decided to create a rattle pattern. It is so quick and simple you can crochet it on the way to the baby shower for a last minute gift. This pattern calls for two balls to be made, one having a longer tube crocheted from it, and then sewed together.  I haven't measured exactly, but I think one small skein of Sugar'n Cream may make two rattles.


Simple baby rattle

after round 4
Materials needed: Small amount of Sugar’n Cream in a fun color, 2 large jingle bells, stuffing, F (3.75mm) hook
Do not join with a slip stitch, worked in rounds. Use a stitch marker to keep track of your first stitch and keep count of your rounds.
For the first ball, in a magic ring, sc 6x.
Rnd1: 2sc ss 6x (12sc)
Rnd2: *2sc ss, sc, repeat to marker. (18sc)
Rnd3: *2sc ss, sc 2x, repeat around. (24sc)
Rnd4: *2sc ss, sc 3x, repeat around. (30sc)
Rnds5-8: sc in each, move your st marker as you go. (30sc)
Rnd9: *sc2tog, sc 3x, repeat around. (24sc)
Rnd10: *sc2tog, sc 2x, repeat around. Stuff and add your bell now. (18sc)
Rnd11: *sc2tog, sc in next st, repeat around. (12sc)
Rnds12-21: sc around, move your st marker and stuff as you go. Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing onto the other ball.
Repeat rounds 1 through 12 for the second ball. Leave the end long enough to sew to the first ball.











second ball completed




















 You may enjoy my patterns for free, even sell your finished projects, but please DO NOT claim my patterns or photos as your own and DO NOT sell them.

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

abbreviations

I would like to take a minute to make sure we are on the same page with the abbreviations. It is impossible to achieve desired results if you can’t understand the instructions. Crochet patterns often use a variety of abbreviations. Unfortunately not all of them are universally used. I am self-taught and have had nobody to guide me as to what are the correct terms to use when writing a pattern so most people reading it can also understand and create it. I have seen quite a few patterns and they all vary to some degree. With dozens of examples to choose from, what are the best abbreviations to use?  I try to write my patterns in a simple, easy to read manner. I do utilize abbreviations often. Not only do they save me time when writing, but it also saves the reader time. Here is a handy list of the more common abbreviations I tend to adhere to. 

beg- begin/beginning
beg ch- beginning chain
ch-chain
ch sp- chain space
sp- space
slst- slip stitch
sc- single crochet
hdc- half double crochet
dc- double crochet
tr- treble crochet
cs or rsc- crab stitch/ reverse single crochet
rep- repeat
dec- decrease
inc- increase
rnd- round/rounds
st- stitch/ stitches
ss- same stitch
tog- together
sk- skip, will most refer to skipping stitches
mm- millimeters
in- inches
fo- fasten off
RS- right side, this is the public view of your work
WS- wrong side, this is the private view of your work
wh st-whip stitch
ww- worsted weight
2dc- 2 double crochet. Any number that precedes a crochet stitch will determine how many consecutive stitches to make
2dc ss- 2 double crochet in the same stitch. The number tells how many consecutive stitches to make and the ss tells you to put them in  the same stitch.
2dc ss 2x- 2 double crochet in the same stitch for the next two stitches. 
The number tells how many consecutive stitches to make and the ss tells you to put them in  the same stitch and the 2x tells you that you need to do this twice.
dc2tog- double crochet the next two stitches together, also known as a dc decrease.


Sunday, February 5, 2012

rippled granny throw*


I have always loved the look of granny squares and ripple blankets. One day I seen a picture of a beautiful afghan posted in a crochet group on Facebook. It was a ripple granny blanket, very stunning.  I decided to crochet a smaller throw. You can add squares for a full size blanket, but this is what I had time and yarn for. I had a lot of fun facing this challenge. I had not tried a ripple blanket until this. I should have before trying this and then I would not have had to frog as much. This is not an easy pattern at first. I suggest having a good grasp on ripple patterns before adding granny squares. 


Rippled Granny Throw

(8) 6” granny squares
(2) 6” half granny squares
5mm/ H hook
Bernat Softee Baby-Antique Ivory  1 full skein
Vanna’s Choice-Dusty Green  1 full skein+very small amount more (length from valley to valley)
TLC Essentials-Robin Egg  2 full skeins
Granny square:
Make a magic ring, ch 6, *3dc, ch 3, 3dc, repeat 3x, 2 dc, slst to join to top of ch3, (the ch6 counts as a ch3+first dc)
Rnd1: slst, ch6, 3dc, all in the same ch3 space, chi 1, *3dc,ch 3, 3dc in next ch3 sp, ch1, repeat 2x, 2dc in first ch3 sp, slst to top of ch3.
Rnd2: slst, ch6, 3dc, all in the same ch3 space, ch 1, 3dc in next ch1 sp, *(3dc, ch3, 3dc) in ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in next ch1 sp, repeat 2x, 2dc in first ch3 sp, slst to top of ch3.
Rnd3: slst, ch6, 3dc, all in the same ch3 space, *ch1,3dc in next ch1 sp, 2x, ch1,*(3dc, ch3, 3dc) in next ch3 sp, (ch1, 3dc in next ch1 sp) 2x, ch1, repeat from last * 2x, 2dc in first ch3 sp, slst to top of ch3.
Rnd4: slst, ch6, 3dc, all in the same ch3 space, *ch1, 3dc in next ch1 sp, 3x, ch1,*(3dc, ch3, 3dc) in next ch3 sp, (ch1, 3dc in next ch1 sp) 3x, ch1, repeat from last * 2x, 2dc in first ch3 sp, slst to top of ch3. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Half granny square:
Make a magic ring, ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc, ch3 and turn.
Row1: 2dc ss, ch1, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, ch 1, 3dc in top of ch3, ch 3 and turn.
Row2: 2dc ss, ch1, 3dc In ch1 sp, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in ch1 sp, 3dc in top of ch3, ch 3 and turn.
Row3: 2dc ss, *ch1, 3dc in next two ch1 spaces, ch1, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in next two ch1 sp and top of ch3, ch 3 and turn.
Row4:  : 2dc ss, *ch1, 3dc in next three ch1 spaces, ch1, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in next three ch1 sp and top of ch3, ch 3 and turn.
Row5: : 2dc ss, *ch1, 3dc in next four ch1 spaces, ch1, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in next four ch1 sp and top of ch3, ch 3 and turn. Fasten off and weave in ends.

First strip: lay out 3 full squares, corner to corner.  Attach yarn and single crochet from one point to the opposite, putting 4sc in the second point. Single crochet in the first point of the next square, single crochet to the opposite point, putting 4sc in the second point. Repeat again for the last square.
Row1: ch3, dc2tog (this decrease keeps a straight edge), dc in each sc to valley, dc2tog 2x (first is one one square, the next falls on the next square), dc in ea sc to ridge, 2dc ss 2x (the middle 4 sc of the points), dc in ea sc to next valley and repeat across, ending with a decrease to keep that edge straight, too.
I chose three rows of blue, done in dc, after the sc row. Make sure you increase at the top of the ridges and decrease at to bottom of the valleys directly above the previous row’s increases and decreases. Don’t forget the decreases at the beginning and ending of each row, also.

Then, I crocheted two rows of ivory, one row of green, in the same fashion, except, I decreased in each valley 3dctog. I did not change the increases. Fastened off all strands and weaved in ends. On one side only, dc in ivory two rows.
The third strip is made the same way as the first.
Second strip: lay out 2 half squares and 2 full squares, corner to corner, starting and ending with a half square. Attach yarn to the top point of a half square, sc down to middle point (where the next square meets), sc in point of next square, sc to the top of the point. Put 4sc in top of the point. Keep single crocheting and adding squares just like the first strip.
Row1: ch3, dc in joining st and in each sc to valley, dc2tog 2x (first is one square, the next falls on the next square), dc in ea sc to ridge, 2dc ss 2x ( the middle 4 sc of the points), dc in ea sc to next valley and repeat across, ending with a increase to keep that edge straight.  Your ripples come to life.
I chose four rows of blue dc after the sc row. Make sure you increase at the top of the ridges and decrease at to bottom of the valleys directly above the previous row’s increases and decreases. Don’t forget the increases at the beginning and ending of each row.
Just like the first, I did two rows of ivory, one row of green, two rows of ivory, and four rows of blue in the same fashion, except, I decreased in each valley 3dctog. I did not change the increases. The valleys were too crowded is the reason for changing the decreases. Fastened off all strands and weaved in ends.
The third strip is made the same way as the first.
Lay each strip out with strip one on top, strip two in the middle, and three on bottom. This is the order to be sewn.  Sew strip 1 to strip 2, then to strip 3. Attach yarn and sc around entire border.


















 You may enjoy my patterns for free, even sell your finished projects, but please DO NOT claim my patterns or photos as your own and DO NOT sell them.