rippled granny throw*

I have always loved the look of granny squares and ripple blankets. One day I seen a picture of a beautiful afghan posted in a crochet group on Facebook. It was a ripple granny blanket, very stunning.  I decided to crochet a smaller throw. You can add squares for a full size blanket, but this is what I had time and yarn for. I had a lot of fun facing this challenge. I had not tried a ripple blanket until this. I should have before trying this and then I would not have had to frog as much. This is not an easy pattern at first. I suggest having a good grasp on ripple patterns before adding granny squares. 

Rippled Granny Throw

(8) 6” granny squares

(2) 6” half granny squares

5mm/ H hook

Bernat Softee Baby-Antique Ivory  1 full skein

Vanna’s Choice-Dusty Green  1 full skein+very small amount more (length from valley to valley)

TLC Essentials-Robin Egg  2 full skeins

Granny square:

Make a magic ring, ch 6, *3dc, ch 3, 3dc, repeat 3x, 2 dc, slst to join to top of ch3, (the ch6 counts as a ch3+first dc)

Rnd1: slst, ch6, 3dc, all in the same ch3 space, chi 1, *3dc,ch 3, 3dc in next ch3 sp, ch1, repeat 2x, 2dc in first ch3 sp, slst to top of ch3.

Rnd2: slst, ch6, 3dc, all in the same ch3 space, ch 1, 3dc in next ch1 sp, *(3dc, ch3, 3dc) in ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in next ch1 sp, repeat 2x, 2dc in first ch3 sp, slst to top of ch3.

Rnd3: slst, ch6, 3dc, all in the same ch3 space, *ch1,3dc in next ch1 sp, 2x, ch1,*(3dc, ch3, 3dc) in next ch3 sp, (ch1, 3dc in next ch1 sp) 2x, ch1, repeat from last * 2x, 2dc in first ch3 sp, slst to top of ch3.

Rnd4: slst, ch6, 3dc, all in the same ch3 space, *ch1, 3dc in next ch1 sp, 3x, ch1,*(3dc, ch3, 3dc) in next ch3 sp, (ch1, 3dc in next ch1 sp) 3x, ch1, repeat from last * 2x, 2dc in first ch3 sp, slst to top of ch3. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Half granny square:

Make a magic ring, ch3, 2dc, ch3, 3dc, ch3 and turn.

Row1: 2dc ss, ch1, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, ch 1, 3dc in top of ch3, ch 3 and turn.

Row2: 2dc ss, ch1, 3dc In ch1 sp, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in ch1 sp, 3dc in top of ch3, ch 3 and turn.

Row3: 2dc ss, *ch1, 3dc in next two ch1 spaces, ch1, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in next two ch1 sp and top of ch3, ch 3 and turn.

Row4:  : 2dc ss, *ch1, 3dc in next three ch1 spaces, ch1, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in next three ch1 sp and top of ch3, ch 3 and turn.

Row5: : 2dc ss, *ch1, 3dc in next four ch1 spaces, ch1, 3dc, ch3, 3dc in ch3 sp, ch1, 3dc in next four ch1 sp and top of ch3, ch 3 and turn. Fasten off and weave in ends.

First strip: lay out 3 full squares, corner to corner.  Attach yarn and single crochet from one point to the opposite, putting 4sc in the second point. Single crochet in the first point of the next square, single crochet to the opposite point, putting 4sc in the second point. Repeat again for the last square.

Row1: ch3, dc2tog (this decrease keeps a straight edge), dc in each sc to valley, dc2tog 2x (first is one one square, the next falls on the next square), dc in ea sc to ridge, 2dc ss 2x (the middle 4 sc of the points), dc in ea sc to next valley and repeat across, ending with a decrease to keep that edge straight, too.

I chose three rows of blue, done in dc, after the sc row. Make sure you increase at the top of the ridges and decrease at to bottom of the valleys directly above the previous row’s increases and decreases. Don’t forget the decreases at the beginning and ending of each row, also.

Then, I crocheted two rows of ivory, one row of green, in the same fashion, except, I decreased in each valley 3dctog. I did not change the increases. Fastened off all strands and weaved in ends. On one side only, dc in ivory two rows.

The third strip is made the same way as the first.

Second strip: lay out 2 half squares and 2 full squares, corner to corner, starting and ending with a half square. Attach yarn to the top point of a half square, sc down to middle point (where the next square meets), sc in point of next square, sc to the top of the point. Put 4sc in top of the point. Keep single crocheting and adding squares just like the first strip.

Row1: ch3, dc in joining st and in each sc to valley, dc2tog 2x (first is one square, the next falls on the next square), dc in ea sc to ridge, 2dc ss 2x ( the middle 4 sc of the points), dc in ea sc to next valley and repeat across, ending with a increase to keep that edge straight.  Your ripples come to life.

I chose four rows of blue dc after the sc row. Make sure you increase at the top of the ridges and decrease at to bottom of the valleys directly above the previous row’s increases and decreases. Don’t forget the increases at the beginning and ending of each row.

Just like the first, I did two rows of ivory, one row of green, two rows of ivory, and four rows of blue in the same fashion, except, I decreased in each valley 3dctog. I did not change the increases. The valleys were too crowded is the reason for changing the decreases. Fastened off all strands and weaved in ends.

The third strip is made the same way as the first.

Lay each strip out with strip one on top, strip two in the middle, and three on bottom. This is the order to be sewn.  Sew strip 1 to strip 2, then to strip 3. Attach yarn and sc around entire border.

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