Leslee's sweater*

You asked for it, you got it! Here is another simple sweater, but this time it’s larger.  I flipped the back to the front by adding 3 buttons. I do wear mine both ways. Click here to view My sweater. This one is a gift for my mom's birthday. I know it fits because she already tried it on.

Leslee’s sweater

Size medium/adult

What I used:

 more than 3 skeins of Caron Country,  I (5.5 mm) hook

What I did:

Chain 12, place a stitch marker, ch15, mark, ch25, mark, ch15, mark, ch13.

Row1: hdc in second ch from hook and in each st across except for the marked stitches; (hdc, ch1, hdc) in each marked stitch across. Ch2, turn.

Rows 2-13: hdc in each hdc, and (hdc, ch2, hdc) in each ch2 space.

Row14: hdc in ea hdc to ch2 space, hdc in ch2 sp, ch1, hdc in next ch2 space.  This creates the arm hole. Hdc to next ch2 space, hdc in the ch2 space, ch1, hdc in the next ch2 space. Hdc in ea hdc to end. 

Rounds15-21: slip stitch to first hdc to join work into a circle. Hdc in the round, do not slst to join or ch to raise.

Row22: slst to join, ch1, sc in joining st, skip 2 sc, *5dc ss, skip 2 sc, sc, repeat around, ending with a slst to join.

Row23: ch4, 2dc in joining st, *sc in third dc of next shell, 5dc ss in next sc, repeat around ending with sc in third dc of last shell. 2dc in last joining st to complete first shell, slst to third ch.

Repeat rows 22-23 until desired length. You can end there if you wish. I ran out of the dark taupe yarn and needed to add a different color. I chose this border to finish the length I needed.

Row40:  (change colors during the last slst) ch4, dc, in joining, dc in the space between the 3^rd and 4^th dcs of the shell, dc in next space between dcs. (I do not go into the loops of the stitches here and from now on, hook around the 3 loops. This just gives a lacier look.) *Skip the sc in between shells and dc in next 2 dc, (dc, ch1, dc) in between the 3^rd and 4^th dcs, dc in the next 2 dc. Repeat around to end and slst to top of ch4.

I repeated row 40 two more times. I then sc each dc and 3 sc in the ch1 spaces. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Trim: I simply attached yarn on the neckline and sc around with an H hook.  Each buttonhole is a chain of 5 (sc, ch5, sc in same stitch). I didn’t trim the sleeves.

 You may enjoy my patterns for free, even sell your finished projects, but please DO NOT claim my patterns or photos as your own and DO NOT sell them.

Frog head lovey*

I needed a last minute gift for my nephew’s baptism. This idea caught my eye on Pinterest. Someone pinned a cute owl lovey, but James likes frogs and monkeys, not owls. So after a little revising, this is what I came up with; a frog head lovey.  At first I was not sure if it looked like a frog, but after I got validation from my daughter, I wrapped it up to gift. I started around 4 pm and had it finished before bed. My hand ached, but I got it done in about 5-6 hours. The blanket is a simple granny square. I used Bernat’s Pipsqueak yarn with a 10 mm hook. I was surprised at how little one skein made, but I had no time to shop for more.  I added a border with 2 strands of worsted weight white yarn held together for 2 rows. It is plain single crochet, nothing fancy. This is a quick gift to crochet, but I hope you have more time than I did to enjoy the process. Eventually, I would like to create a variety of heads, maybe someone from Dr. Seuss or Disney.

Frog head

Materials needed- a small amount of ww yarn in green, white and black and a G (4mm) hook

In a magic ring, sc 6x.

Round1: 2sc in each st. (12sc)

Round3: *2sc ss, sc, repeat around. (18sc)

Round4: *2sc ss, sc2x, repeat around. (24sc)

Round5: *2sc ss, sc 3x, repeat around. (30sc)

Round6: *2sc ss, sc 4x, repeat around. (36sc)

Round7: *2sc ss, sc 5x repeat around. (42sc)

Rounds8-10: sc in each st. 

Round11: sc 18x, 2sc ss, sc 2x, 2sc ss, sc 2x, 2sc ss, sc 20x.  This is helps the shape not be a perfect sphere. It will form a bulging area by having the increases in the correct area. This shapes the frog's mouth.

Round12: sc 18x, 2sc ss, sc 3x, 2sc ss, sc 2x, 2sc ss, sc 19x. 

Round13: sc 20x, sc2tog 3x, sc 22x. 

Round14: sc in each st.

Round15: *sc 5x, sc2tog, repeat around. You may have an extra 3 stitches left. Just continue with the repeat until the end of the round.

Round16: *sc 4x, sc2tog, repeat around.

Round17: *sc 3x, sc2tog, repeat around.

Round18: *sc 2x, sc2tog, repeat around.

Round19: *sc 1x, sc2tog, repeat around.

Round20: *sc2tog, repeat around. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the middle of the blanket.

Eyes (make 2):
starting with white, in a magic ring, sc 6x.

Round1: 2sc in each st. Switch to green in the last st.

Round3: *sc, 2 sc ss, repeat around. (12)

Round4: *sc 2x,  2sc ss, repeat around. (18)

Round5: *sc 2x, sc2tog, repeat around. (12)

Round6: *sc, sc2tog, repeat around.

Round7: *sc2tog, repeat around. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the head.

Simply make 2 black stitches in the white part of the eyes. Make sure you are diligent when fastening small pieces together, especially when the gift is given to infants.

 You may enjoy my patterns for free, even sell your finished projects, but please DO NOT claim my patterns or photos as your own and DO NOT sell them.

Carry-all cigarette case*

Ok, I admit. I am a smoker. I’m always on the go and forget the smokes, lighter, cell or wallet. When I do remember all items, I usually drop one or two on the way out the door.  Why do I not just grab my purse?  It’s too big and bulky to take with me on the quick trips, or for instance, to the pool. I want a cute case to carry all my little things I need without toting a suitcase around.

A friend of mine, Michelle, graduated from college this summer. I immediately thought of crocheting her a carry-all case with a kiss clasp, as I’ve seen her juggling a pack and a lighter.

This pattern is super easy and quick. I couldn’t leave it plain; I wanted to try my hand at something special. You can do whatever you choose. Stripes, solid, add a name, who knows? Let your imagination run free.

Carry-all cigarette case

Small amount of any cotton or worsted weight yarn

G/4mm hook, kiss clasp

I started with a single crochet foundation row of 16. Continue crocheting in rows for a total of 8 rows to make a rectangle.

Row9: ch1 sc around the back post of each stitch around the perimeter of the rectangle. This will make the fabric stand straight up, rather than a soft curve.

Row10: ch1, turn. Sc around. Slst to first st to join, ch1 and DON’T turn from here on out.

Row11: sc in Back Loops Only.

Row12: ch1, hdc same st as joining, hdc in ea sc around using both loops.

Row13: ch1, sc around.

Rows14-16: repeat rows 11-13. (scBLO,hdc,sc)

Row17: repeat row 13. (sc)

Row18: ch1, sc ss, sc2tog, sc to next corner, sc2tog, repeat around. (4 decreases, 1 in each corner)

Row19: repeat row13. (sc)

Row20: repeat row 18. (decreases)

Row21: repeat row 12. (hdc)

Row22: repeat row 13. (sc)

Row23: repeat row 11. (scBLO)

Row24: sc, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc 5x, sc2tog, sc, sc2tog, sc. Ch1, turn.

Row25: sc around. Ch1, turn.

Row26: sc, sc2tog, s 7x, sc2tog, sc. Ch1, turn.

Row27: repeat row 25.

Row28: sc in 2^nd st, sc 3x, sc2tog, sc3x, slst. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the clasp.  On one clasp I bought, the holes were too small for yarn, so I used a durable, heavy-duty thread. Don’t be afraid of this project. It is a lot of fun and extremely cute. 

 You may enjoy my patterns for free, even sell your finished projects, but please DO NOT claim my patterns or photos as your own and DO NOT sell them.

Sophie's sweater*

Every time I wear my sweater, which is all the time, someone hints for me to make them one.  Here’s the first finished, for my daughter.  It is similar on the top, but the shells are tighter. I think this pattern is easier than My sweater. It is the same size, only shorter. I hope you enjoy it.

Sophie’s sweater

Materials: Caron Simply Soft yarn, 2 colors

            I and H hooks, 2 buttons

Chain 11, place a stitch marker, ch16, mark, ch21, mark, ch16, mark, ch12.

Row1: hdc in second ch from hook and in each st across except for the marked stitches; hdc, ch1, hdc in each marked stitch across. Ch2, turn.

Rows 2-13: hdc in each hdc, and hdc, ch2, hdc in each ch2 space.

Row14: hdc in ea hdc to ch2 space, hdc in ch2 sp, ch1, hdc in next ch2 space.  This creates the arm hole. Hdc to next ch2 space, hdc in the ch2 space, ch1, hdc in the next ch2 space. Hdc in ea hdc to end. 

Row15: slip stitch to first hdc to join work into a circle. Sc in back loops only around, slst to first sc.

Row16: slst to join, do not turn. Ch4, skip a stitch, *dc, skip a st, repeat around.

Row 17: slst to join, do not turn. Ch1, sc around, slst to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Trim: using an H hook

I used the same color yarn, attach and sc around the neckline and opening on both sides, making chains for button holes on the left side.

Around each armhole, I attached same color and *(dc, ch1, sc)ss, slst in next stitch, repeat around.

Row18: attach second color to any stitch in the back, sc in each st in BLO around. Slst to join.

Row19: ch1, sc in joining st, skip 2 sc, *5dc ss, skip 2 sc, sc, repeat around, ending with a slst to join.

Row20: ch4, 2dc in joining st, *sc in third dc of next shell, 5dc ss in next sc, repeat around ending with sc in third dc of last shell. 2dc in last joining st to complete first shell, slst to third ch.

Repeat rows 19-20 until desired length. Repeat rows 19-20, using treble crochets for the last 2 rows.

On the last row before joining in the round, i used the Front Loops Only. I did this this ONLY for the sleeves, between the hdc,ch1,hdc spaces. This left an extra ridge for detail, it is not necessary.   

The extra ridge created.

On the left and right sides only, the stitch markers show where the extra ridge is, on the sleeve portion only.

Here the work is folded in half. You can see where it has been joined under the arms.

The front, after joining in the round.

Close up of trim work.

Scalloped sleeves.

 You may enjoy my patterns for free, even sell your finished projects, but please DO NOT claim my patterns or photos as your own and DO NOT sell them.

My sweater*

My Sweater

Remember the pink dresses I made? Click here to see them. Well, I altered that pattern quite a bit to come up with something for myself.  Here is my sweater. I absolutely love it, even though I missed a stitch in the front. The front could be the back, too. I have worn it both ways.  I usually take a “real” size small, not in the hip, young girl’s section. I think it would be fun to try this same pattern in a thicker yarn with a larger hook size to see what size sweater you would come up with. If anyone tries, please share with the rest of us.

What I used:

I hook and almost 800 yards of Caron Spa yarn

How I did it: Chain 11, place a stitch marker, ch16, mark, ch21, mark, ch16, mark, ch12.

Row1: hdc in second ch from hook and in each st across except for the marked stitches; hdc, ch1, hdc in each marked stitch across. Ch2, turn.

Rows 2-13: hdc in each hdc, and hdc, ch2, hdc in each ch2 space.

Row14: hdc in ea hdc to ch2 space, hdc in ch2 sp, ch1, hdc in next ch2 space.  This creates the arm hole. Hdc to next ch2 space, hdc in the ch2 space, ch1, hdc in the next ch2 space. Hdc in ea hdc to end. 

Row15: slip stitch to first hdc to join work into a circle. Sc in back loops only around, slst to first sc.

Row16: working in both loops again, sc in joining stitch, (dc, ch1) 3x in the third st, repeat around. (8shells)

Row17: ch4, (dc, ch1) in joining st, *sc in middle dc, (dc, ch1) 4x in sc, repeat around. (dc, ch1) 2x in first st, slst to third chain.

Row18: ch1, sc in joining, *(dc, ch1) 5x in sc, sc in middle dc of next shell, slst in first sc.

Row19: ch4, (dc, ch1) 2x in joining, *sc in middle dc of next shell, (dc, ch1) 7x in same sc, repeat around. (dc, ch1) 4x in first st, slst to third chain.

Rows20-21: repeat rows 18 and 19. Use (dc, ch1) 7x in ss for each shell. Still sc in the middle st of the next shell.

Rows22-38: repeat rows 18 and 19. Use (dc, ch1) 6x ss for each shell. Still sc in the middle st of the next shell.

Row39: repeat shells using (dc, ch1) 7x ss. Still sc in the middle st of the next shell.

Row40: repeat shells using (dc, ch1) 8x ss. Still sc in the middle st of the next shell.

Row41: repeat shells using (triple crochet, ch1) 7x ss. Still sc in the middle st of the next shell.

Rows42-44: repeat shells using (tr, ch1) 6x ss. Still sc in the middle st of the next shell.

Rows44-45: repeat shells using (quadruple crochet, ch1) 6x ss. Still sc in the middle st of the next shell.

Row46: sc in each st around. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Work is folded in half with chain spaces aligned.

After joining chain spaces for armholes.

Joining into a circle.

After joining.

 You may enjoy my patterns for free, even sell your finished projects, but please DO NOT claim my patterns or photos as your own and DO NOT sell them.

crunch stitch crochet hook case*

   I have wanted to have a give-away of some kind. In the Stitchery, my FB crochet group, I decided to get others motivated in participation by offering a prize. I wasn’t even sure what it would be at first. Every day for a week, I would write down the names of the members whose photos were at the top of group’s page. I still am not 100% sure what decides whose pic is on top. At first, I thought it was people who entered the room, but you may have to at least “like” a post while you are there. 

Yesterday, I wrote an extra set of names to give more members a chance. Typed them all into the randomizer and waited 2 seconds to see which name was on the top of the list. Congrats! Gabriele Carmona from Nevada won. I hope she enjoys her new crochet hook case. This was so exciting for me, I plan to have more give-aways in the future. Don’t miss your chance, join the Stitchery or  like Liberty Crochet today.

Crunch stitch crochet hook case

Small amount of ww yarn. I used 2 colors.

H and F hooks /tapestry needle /one button

You will start with a single crochet row of 24 stitches or chain 25 and sc in 2^nd st from hook and in each stitch.

Row1: ch1, turn. Sc in BLO across. (24sc)

Row2: ch1, turn. Sc in FLO across. (24sc)

Row3: ch2, turn. Slip stitch in 2^nd sc, *hdc in next, slst in next, repeat across, ending with a slst.

Row4: ch2, turn. Slst in 1^st hdc, *hdc in next slst, slst in next hdc, repeat across, always ending with a slst.

Repeat the crunch stitch in rows for a total of 22 rows. Panle should measure around 4 ½” tall and 6” wide. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Here, I attach my trim color and slst across the top.

Attach yarn on WRONG side to your first beginning chain.

Row1: ch1, sc in each st. (24sc)

Row2: ch1, turn. Sc in BLO across. (24sc)

Row3: ch1, turn. Sc in FLO across. (24sc)

Rows4-35: repeat last 2 rows (work becomes around 8 1/4”  tall.)

Row36: ch1, turn. Sc2tog 2x, *sc, sc2tog, repeat across to last 4 stitches, sc2tog 2x. fasten off and weave in ends.

Attach trim color to bottom with RIGHT side facing. Single crochet around entire piece, while holding both thicknesses together to create a pocket. I pinned both sides of the flap with trim color already on it to the piece behind so it would be straight. Every stitch gets one sc, except the corners get 2 sc in the same stitch. Across the flap, the shells are made and the middle shell will be the button hole.

For shells, when you get to the corner of the flap: skip first stitch, 3dc ss, skip a stitch, sc, skip 2 st, (3tr, ch2, 3tr) in the same center st, skip 2 st, sc, skip 1 st, 3dc ss, skip 1 stt and sc in last st on flap. Then you can continue sc around the perimeter. Fasten off and weave in ends.

To stitch the lines up and down for the hook dividers, I used slip stitches. I found a great tutorial on Knit and Crochet Today, the tv show. Click here to watch. It is almost a half hour long, but it’s loaded with great information.

Slip stitching both thicknesses together to make the hook dividers.

                                     

All full

If  I were keeping this, I would stop here to leave a larger slot for my scissors.

 You may enjoy my patterns for free, even sell your finished projects, but please DO NOT claim my patterns or photos as your own and DO NOT sell them.